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Current exhibition

Special Exhibition
Have you eaten? Food and Drink in Painting and Calligraphy at the NPM
Introduction
 
Art comes from life, and in everyday life, few things are more important than food.
This exhibition introduces works of painting and calligraphy in the NPM’s collections that center on eating and drinking. Everything is on the table, from raw ingredients to fully-cooked meals, from the delicacies of sumptuous banquets to subtle flavors of tiny side dishes. We warmly welcome curious museum visitors to explore the beverages and cuisines that appear in the artworks of the ages. Find your favorite flavors and let your eyes indulge in a visual feast! To make sure you’ll be in good company, we’ve invited the Northern Song dynasty bon vivant Su Shi (1037-1011) to share his favorite fine liquors, congees, and seafood. His good friend Huang Tingjian (1045-1105) will be here, too, introducing some of his frugal specialties. Recipes for cooking shrimp and crab from a Kangxi era (1661-1722) text entitled Marine Creatures will make an appearance, as will records of the lives of two great artist-gourmands, Chang Dai-chien (1899-1983) and Pu Ru (1896-1963). It goes without out saying that there will be plenty of other Easter eggs waiting to be discovered. We welcome you to relax and explore the exhibition as though you were wandering a farmer’s market on a hunt for delicious treasures! 
 
 
Section Introductions
 
Scholar Su Guides You on an Eating and Drinking Adventure
The inventor of Dongpo pork (sometimes written Tung Po pork) was the famous gourmand Su Shi (1037-1101), who also happened to be the Northern Song dynasty’s most renowned writer and calligrapher. Works by celebrated calligraphers throughout the ages who made copies of Su’s writings on food and drink are extremely numerous. For this exhibition we’ve selected works related to delicious bean congee, fresh seafood, and exquisite wine and liquor. We invite everybody to let your mouths water and stomachs growl as you check out this section. 
 
Huang Tingjian’s Frugal Specialties
The famous calligrapher Huang Tingjian (1045-1105) became a vegetarian when he was forty years old due to his deep faith in Buddhism. He left behind many food-related works. One of them tells how, in addition to studying the Tang dynasty Buddhist monk Huaisu’s (725-785) calligraphy, Huang also shared Huaisu’s love of eating bitter bamboo shoots. Other writings inform us that he didn’t like to throw away sweet potatoes even if they sprouted, and that he and his friends used to make gifts of food to one another. Modern audiences will certainly have a deep appreciation for how Huang Tingjian maintained frugality and counted his blessings. 
 
Men Browsing the Market 
The Kangxi era painter Nie Huang’s Marine Creatures contains short written sketches on marine exploration, and it is filled with all manner of different recipes for cooking seafood that were passed from person to person in towns and marketplaces. Pu Ru (1896-1963), who was the cousin of the Qing dynasty’s last emperor, Pu Yi, was originally a Manchu bannerman from Beijing. After he came to Taiwan he took up permanent residence near Dongmen Market in Taipei. Each time he painted the meat and produce he saw at the market, he never forgot to add calligraphic odes to groceries he portrayed. 
 
Compliments of Chef Dai-chien 
The 20th century’s most renowned master of traditional Chinese painting, Chang Dai-chien (1899-1983), was a native of Sichuan, a province that is well-known for its delicious cuisine. In 1976 Chang came to Taiwan, where spent the final years of his life living in the Abode of Maya (now an NPM-affiliated museum known as the Chang Dai-chien Residence). Committed to living the good life and possessed of an easygoing and unaffected personality, Chang often hosted guests from all walks of life at his dining table. In addition to being an important part of his daily life, food and drink played a major role in the feasts he threw for guests as well as other social interactions. 
Exhibition Information
  • Event Date 2025-06-03~2025-08-31
  • Location 2F S203
Huang Tingjian, Song dynasty
Calligraphic Marinated Ginger and Ginkgo Letter
  • (Marinated Ginger, Gingko, Butter, Jujubes)
  • Paper
Huang Tingjian (1045-1105), who was a native of Fenning (present-day Xiushui) in Jiangxi province, became a vegetarian at the age of forty due as a part of his Buddhist practice. This piece, which is also known as “Marinated Ginger and Ginkgo,” is a letter Huang wrote to accompany the Yong butter and Qingzhou jujubes he sent to a friend in thanks for a gift of marinated ginger and ginkgo. He wrote with rounded brushwork that kept the brush’s tip concealed within the lines. Huang wielded his brush with forceful grace, his strength evident in the cadence of his writing. Although this piece departs from traits commonly seen in his calligraphy, such as tilted character orientations and horizontal strokes that end on the diagonal, it has its own unique panache. According to records left by the pharmacist Su Song (1020-1101), Qingzhou jujubes were famous for being a fruit with ample flesh. Additionally, one of Huang Tingjian’s poems, “Thanking Jing Shuhui for Winter Bamboo Shoots, Yong Butter, and Pears,” contains a line that reads “the cows of Qin are plump, and the butter from their milk is whiter than snow.” From this poem’s wording, it can be surmised that Yong butter was probably produced in Yongzhou, where it was churned from the cream of local cattle.
He Shaoji, Qing dynasty
Running Script Calligraphy
  • (Added Rice Wine)
  • Paper
He Shaoji (1799-1873), of Dao county in Hunan province, had the style name Zizhen and the sobriquet Yuansou (“Old Simian”). He passed the imperial examinations at the rank of presented scholar in the 16th year of the Daoguang reign period. He began official service as an editor at the Imperial Hanlin Academy, and later taught in Shandong, Hunan, and Zhejiang provinces. He Shaoji was dedicated to bronze and stone inscription epigraphy, and collections of his poetry and essays were widely circulated. This piece is a transcription of a passage in Su Shi’s (1037-1101) Classic of Wine, written in a free-wheeling manner with an orientation that is remarkably akin to fine rain falling at a slant in the wind. The text describes how to select excellent yeast for fermenting rice wine, as well as the ratios and methods for adding rice during the fermentation process. This specific method requires separately adding one large and four small portions of rice as the wine ferments. Because the portions are added one at a time to the fermenting liquor, this beverage is known as “Added Rice Wine.” This work was donated to the NPM by the brothers Tan Po-yu and Tan Chih-fu.
Qian Xuan, Song dynasty
Autumn Melon
  • (Melons)
  • 紙本
Qian Xuan, a native of Zhachuan (present-day Huzhou in Zhejiang province), had the style name Shunju and the sobriquet Zhaxi Weng (“Fellow from the Zha River”). He passed the imperial examinations at the provincial level and was recommended as a tributary presented scholar during the Southern Song dynasty’s Jingding reign period (1260-1265), but he did not work in government after the founding of the Yuan dynasty (1271-1368). For this painting, Shen employed various hues of green applied heavily in some places and sparingly in others in order to portray a solitary watermelon. The melon’s leaves are twisted into a variety of positions, and the nearby grasses as well as the veins in the melon’s vines and leaves were all depicted with the exacting detail and fresh elegance that are the stylistic inheritance of Southern Song dynasty painting. The story behind this painting’s poetic inscription comes from Shao Ping, who served as marquis of Dongling during the Qin dynasty (221-217 BCE). After the end of the Qin dynasty, Shao became a commoner and planted melons for a living. His produce was so delicious that they became known as “Dongling Melons,” which later became a metonym for giving up an official post and returning home to live in obscurity. Qian Xuan became a professional painter after the end of the Song dynasty—in this painting, his allusion to “Dongling Melons” makes light of his own circumstances.
Chang Dai-chien, Republican era
Begging for Meals
  • Paper
Chang Dai-chien (1899-1983) started intensely studying traditional painting at a young age; he spent time at the Dunhuang Grottoes, where he threw himself into painting copies of the frescoes. Chang also amassed a collection of works by famous calligraphers and painters from throughout the ages. He rigorously made copies of these works, which allowed him to comprehensively master the quintessence of ancient artists’ brush and ink techniques.
Chang painted several self-portraits throughout the course of his life. He painted this one, “Recluse Dai-chien Begging for Meals Self-Portrait,” in 1973, when he was seventy-five years old and living in the United States. The inscription he wrote for it reads, “In my left hand I hold a chipped bowl, in my right hand a bamboo staff; I’ve wandered through streets with an empty stomach many a time. Ongoing rains, heavy winds, springtime’s come and gone; I followed you begging till my voice became raspy and my throat went hoarse.” Chang spent years of his life traveling and living abroad—in this poem he makes light of a life spent putting on exhibitions and selling paintings in order to “beg for meals.” Although the poem is filled with lamentations, the old man in the portrait exudes vim and vigor, possessing an unusual gravitas. This painting was donated to the NPM by Mr. Chiang Fu-tsung.
Nie Huang, Qing dynasty
Hepu Zebra Crab from Marine Creatures
  • (Zebra Crab, Stone Crab, Pea Crab)
  • Paper
Marine Creatures comprises four albums. The first three are held by the Palace Museum in Beijing, while the NPM possesses the fourth album, which presents illustrations of shrimp, crabs, conches, shellfish and other carapaced sea creatures. The preface in the first album, which was written in the ¬wu-yin year of the Kangxi period (1698), informs us that the albums’ creator was Nie Huang, a native of Qiantang (present-day Hangzhou in Zhejiang province) who was active during Emperor Kangxi’s reign. Nie filled the albums with illustrations of various sea creatures he saw or heard about, accompanying the images with records of common recipes for cooking them. 
This album leaf portrays three different types of crabs. One is the zebra crab, which is unpleasant to eat and yet is said to have the medicinal effect of bringing down swelling. Another is a type of stone crab, also unpalatable, but useful for treating eye afflictions and swelling when it is ground to a pulp. Finally, it includes a pea crab which has occupied an oyster shell. According to what Nie heard, people who eked their living from sea used to carefully look for this sort of small crab in the flesh of oysters, as it was considered a tabletop delicacy.
Pu Ru, Republican era
Light Green with a Proliferation of Long Leaves
  • (Scallion)
  • Paper
In this picture of a scallion, Pu Ru used long lines to paint the plant’s outline, the veins that run the length of its leaves, and the places where the leaves twist or fold back on themselves. Details such as the fronts and backs of the leaves being clearly delineated and the fragile skin of a newly budding leaf are all portrayed. The inscription reads, “Light green with a proliferation of long leaves. When the clear dew is not yet dry, its flavor is fresh and its root is edible. It’s not harvested like mustard plant or radish. Hsin-yu.” This passage alludes to the “Odes of Bei” in the Classic of Poetry, which has a line that reads, “When we gather mustard plants and radishes, we do not reject them because of their roots.” The meaning of this line is that, when harvesting wild mustard plants or wild radishes, one should not discard their leaves because their roots are bitter. The Compendium of Medical Herbs, a 16th century text, records, “When newly budding, it’s called ‘needle scallions;’ its leaves are called ‘scallion greens;’ its skin is called ‘scallion’s gown;’ its stalk is called ‘the white of the scallion.’” Pu Ru’s statement, “its flavor is fresh and its root is edible,” points out how the entire scallion plant is valuable. Chinese medicine texts even record that scallions’ fibrous roots can be used to “de-obstruct the yang” of the body.
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