Have you eaten? Food and Drink in Painting and Calligraphy at the NPM
Introduction
Art comes from life, and in everyday life, few things are more important than food.
This exhibition introduces works of painting and calligraphy in the NPM’s collections that center on eating and drinking. Everything is on the table, from raw ingredients to fully-cooked meals, from the delicacies of sumptuous banquets to subtle flavors of tiny side dishes. We warmly welcome curious museum visitors to explore the beverages and cuisines that appear in the artworks of the ages. Find your favorite flavors and let your eyes indulge in a visual feast! To make sure you’ll be in good company, we’ve invited the Northern Song dynasty bon vivant Su Shi (1037-1011) to share his favorite fine liquors, congees, and seafood. His good friend Huang Tingjian (1045-1105) will be here, too, introducing some of his frugal specialties. Recipes for cooking shrimp and crab from a Kangxi era (1661-1722) text entitled Marine Creatures will make an appearance, as will records of the lives of two great artist-gourmands, Chang Dai-chien (1899-1983) and Pu Ru (1896-1963). It goes without out saying that there will be plenty of other Easter eggs waiting to be discovered. We welcome you to relax and explore the exhibition as though you were wandering a farmer’s market on a hunt for delicious treasures!
Section Introductions
Scholar Su Guides You on an Eating and Drinking Adventure
The inventor of Dongpo pork (sometimes written Tung Po pork) was the famous gourmand Su Shi (1037-1101), who also happened to be the Northern Song dynasty’s most renowned writer and calligrapher. Works by celebrated calligraphers throughout the ages who made copies of Su’s writings on food and drink are extremely numerous. For this exhibition we’ve selected works related to delicious bean congee, fresh seafood, and exquisite wine and liquor. We invite everybody to let your mouths water and stomachs growl as you check out this section.
Huang Tingjian’s Frugal Specialties
The famous calligrapher Huang Tingjian (1045-1105) became a vegetarian when he was forty years old due to his deep faith in Buddhism. He left behind many food-related works. One of them tells how, in addition to studying the Tang dynasty Buddhist monk Huaisu’s (725-785) calligraphy, Huang also shared Huaisu’s love of eating bitter bamboo shoots. Other writings inform us that he didn’t like to throw away sweet potatoes even if they sprouted, and that he and his friends used to make gifts of food to one another. Modern audiences will certainly have a deep appreciation for how Huang Tingjian maintained frugality and counted his blessings.
Men Browsing the Market
The Kangxi era painter Nie Huang’s Marine Creatures contains short written sketches on marine exploration, and it is filled with all manner of different recipes for cooking seafood that were passed from person to person in towns and marketplaces. Pu Ru (1896-1963), who was the cousin of the Qing dynasty’s last emperor, Pu Yi, was originally a Manchu bannerman from Beijing. After he came to Taiwan he took up permanent residence near Dongmen Market in Taipei. Each time he painted the meat and produce he saw at the market, he never forgot to add calligraphic odes to groceries he portrayed.
Compliments of Chef Dai-chien
The 20th century’s most renowned master of traditional Chinese painting, Chang Dai-chien (1899-1983), was a native of Sichuan, a province that is well-known for its delicious cuisine. In 1976 Chang came to Taiwan, where spent the final years of his life living in the Abode of Maya (now an NPM-affiliated museum known as the Chang Dai-chien Residence). Committed to living the good life and possessed of an easygoing and unaffected personality, Chang often hosted guests from all walks of life at his dining table. In addition to being an important part of his daily life, food and drink played a major role in the feasts he threw for guests as well as other social interactions.