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Future exhibition

Permanent Exhibition
Woven Radiance: Material Exchange and Storytelling in Asian
Textiles are the cultural code that comes closest to the human body. In the dense interlacing of warp and weft, we glimpse not only the movement of craft and technique, but also the pathways of exchange and collective memory, woven into cloth.
 
Drawing on the National Palace Museum's collection of Asian textiles, this exhibition unfolds in two parts. “Luminous Threads: The Convergence of Gold and Textiles” traces the material and technical exchange behind gold-woven fabrics, while “Wisdom's Aura: The Flow of Eternal Narratives” explores the symbolic world of narrative cloth.
 
These textiles were often created by the light of oil lamps and candles. In such dim surroundings, metallic fibers catch and scatter light, revealing their texture and depth. Lit by flickering flames, narrative cloths take on a heightened ceremonial presence. This exhibition invites visitors into the half-light to experience the subtle radiance that these textiles have always held.

 

I. Luminous Threads: The Convergence of Gold and Textiles

Gold is among the rarest of earth's gifts. Prized for its exceptional malleability and ductility, it yields to the hand of the craftsman: shaped into vessels, drawn into thread, beaten into leaf. Through different techniques, this unyielding material is worked with great delicacy into fiber, giving rise to a remarkable range of gold-woven textiles. The rarity of both material and skill made these textiles potent symbols of power and status. Their distinctive luster also made them indispensable to social and religious rituals.
 
II. Wisdom's Aura: The Flow of Eternal Narratives

The chemical symbol for gold is Au, from the Latin aurum, which shares an ancient root with “aurora”, the light of dawn. These narrative textiles carry a kindred luminosity: what Walter Benjamin called Aura, the irreproducible quality of an original work, inseparable from its place in time and space.
 
Like a travelling theater, these textiles once brought ancient tales to life—unrolled in dim spaces by the unsteady light of a flame, their figures and creatures animated by every flicker of light and shadow.
 
Soft and portable, textiles travel. Across borders and through centuries, they have carried ancient wisdom. This section invites visitors to explore the stories held within these threads, and to find in them a light that endures.

 
Exhibition Information
  • Event Date Permanent Exhibition
  • Location 3F S304
Balkans, Ottoman dynasty / Late 19th to early 20th century
Woman's robe
This wine-red velvet robe was traditional formal dress for Albanian women in the Ottoman Empire. Bold, three-dimensional scrollwork embroidery adorns the collar, front, cuffs and hem, its raised gold threadwork striking against the deep red velvet, a dazzling display of the wearer's high status. Cut with a fitted round neckline and a flared hem, the robe's long sleeves are slit from underarm to wrist, revealing the layered garments beneath with every movement.
Bengal, / Early 20th century
Muslin sari with gold brocade (jamdani)
Bengal in northeastern India is famed for a cotton so fine it is called “woven air”, locally known as jamdani. On this sari's near-transparent ground, gold, white and grey weft threads form an intricate, understated pattern using the discontinuous weft technique. Metallic thread is usually woven on a stiffer base, such as silk, linen or velvet, rarely cotton, yet Dhaka muslin's exceptional quality allows fine cotton and rigid gold thread to be combined seamlessly. Once worn by elite women, these saris captivated European courts in the 18th and 19th centuries. Napoleon's empress Joséphine was one such admirer.
Sumba, Indonesia / 20th century
Beaded bag with double lion motif
This beaded bag, worn by men in Sumba, Indonesia, signaled the wearer's rank and status. The design closely echoes the coat of arms of the Dutch East India Company (VOC) and was likely drawn from coins, flags or other imported imagery that circulated widely and appealed to local taste.
 
Local artisans wove foreign and indigenous motifs together into a style all their own, the heraldic lions taking on a pixelated, almost naive geometry unlike anything in the European source. The result is both a testament to local craftsmanship and a vivid record of cross-cultural influence.
Indonesia / Early 20th century
Ceremonial skirt cloth with gold imprint (sembagi)
Produced in India for the Indonesian market, this type of painted cloth, known as sembagi, features geometric floral motifs and a border of triangular tumpal patterns at either end.
 
Indonesia artisans applied gold leaf to the imported cloth to lustrous, opulent effect. As gold leaf was costly, it was reserved for the areas that would be most visible when the item was worn. Treasured by the Malay community, such cloths were used in weddings and ceremonies.
India / 18th – 19th century
Embroidered sari pallu border fragment
This fragment once served as the pallu, the ornamental end-piece of a sari, draped prominently across the shoulder or bust. Woven with flat gold thread and silk on a shimmering gold ground, it has been embroidered with exquisite skill: pearls form white blossoms, their centers rubies, the leaves emeralds, all outlined in twisted gold thread. Twenty-four flowering plants are arranged in three orderly rows, an elegant design typical of Mughal courtly splendor.
Java, Indonesia / 20th century
Black wool coat with gold embroidery
This black wool coat with standing collar comes from Java. The collar, cuffs and hem have been embroidered with elaborate European-style floral motifs in metal thread. Such coats were formal dress for Central Javanese royalty and nobility from the 19th to early 20th century. The cut, shaped by contemporary Western military fashion, reflects a fusion of local and foreign traditions, and the style later evolved into te traditional Central Javanese wedding attire that is still worn today.
Coromandel Coast, India / Late 18th to 19th century
Ceremonial cloth (kalamkari)
This work depicts the Ramayana, India's celebrated epic of Prince Rama, who spends 14 years in the forest with his wife Sita and brother Lakshmana to honor a promise of self-exile. When the ten-headed demon king Ravana abducts Sita and steals her away to Lanka, Rama follows and defeats him with the help of the monkey-god Hanuman and his army, and is reunited with his wife.
 
The narrative unfolds across two registers, read left to right, each scene depicting a key episode in Rama's life: his birth, education, marriage, exile, and the journey to rescue his wife. This layout may draw on early Indian temple carvings or 18th-century Tamil Nadu murals. Likely used as a ritual hanging, the work would have been displayed in a dim temple interior, where flickering candlelight brought to life the fine linework and rich, deep-red tones, animating the figures and scenes within.
Indonesia / Early 20th century
Batik skirt cloth with Wayang Kulit design
Shadow puppetry, a major traditional art form in Indonesia, has long inspired batik design. This cloth draws on the Mahabharata, the Indian epic that recounts the war between the Pandava and Kaurava clans, a story that has profoundly shaped Indonesian religious and philosophical thought.
 
The second row from the left depicts Mount Meru and the Tree of Life, a motif marking openings, transitions, and closing scenes in shadow theatre, and symbolizing nature itself. Above rides Arjuna in his chariot, topknot and pointed nose marking him as a youthful warrior. In the lower right stands Bima, and on the left, his half-brother Hanuman. Bima's towering frame and hand braced at his hip convey his strength and valor. Such vivid poses bring the epic battle to life on the cloth.
India / Late 18th –19th century
Ritual hanging with Krishna and the gopis
This fragment of a richly worked red-ground cotton kalamkari once formed part of a hanging used in Krishna devotional rituals. Gopis, or cowherd women, are arranged on either side, facing a flowering tree in the center, which in Hindu belief can itself serve as a sacred symbol of Krishna. Festivals for Krishna were typically held at night, so the gilded surfaces of ritual hangings like these, which were often used to adorn altars, would have caught the candlelight and so deepened the sense of sanctity.
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