This exhibition features the unique collection of textiles from the Southern Branch of the National Palace Museum, and presents the diversities of Asian cultures in various regions. It is divided into four sections: the "Exhibit in Focus" analyzes the characteristics of a classic textile artifact and further interprets its cultural connotations; the "Getting to Know Textiles" reveals the major aspects of manufacturing textiles, including fiber materials, weaving and dyeing techniques, decorative patterns, and garment cuttings. The "Regional Highlights" showcases the exquisite fabrics and clothing styles from South Asia, Southeast Asia, Central Asia and East Asia; the "Wedding Attire" exhibits wedding costumes and explores the ceremonial culture behind as well as people's wishes for a happy life.
Chapter 1
Indian chintz—A fashionable item coveted the world over
India is known for its abundant cotton production and has long mastered the key techniques of cotton dyeing. Its pattern designs can be customized to suit the taste of consumers around the world.
In the 17th century, the Dutch East India Company began exporting Indian chintz to Europe, and that’s when cotton textile products made their way into European homes. These exotic home furnishings were expensive and fashionable symbols of status.
Tree of Life—Exotic home furnishing
In the 18th century, kalamkari, a type of hand-painted or block-printed cotton textile, was widely produced in the Coromandel Coast in India. This very large piece, known as palampore, was one such work that gained popularity in Europe at that time and was used mainly as bedding or for hanging. In the middle of the piece, growing from a mound, is a plant with a curved trunk and flowering branches. Various birds are perched on its branches, and underneath the tree are floral and botanical motifs symbolizing reproduction and creation.
The term “tree of life” comes from the Hebrew and describes either the path to God or the way God created the universe. This motif was prevalent in the ancient cultures of Western Asia and spread to India via the Persian and Mughal cultures.
Cotton—Wool growing on trees?
Until the 16th century, Europeans mostly dressed in linen and wool. As cotton was unknown in Europe, they imagined it as a wool-like material obtained from a hybrid plant-sheep type of zoophyte, as shown in this image: plump sheep growing on a tall tree.
Chapter 2: Getting to Know Textiles
What are textiles? And how are they made? Let's get to know more about the fabrics used in our lives from the aspects of materials, techniques, cut, and decorative patterns.
Chapter 3: Regional Highlights
Asia is a vast region with diverse textile cultures. This section selects textiles from South Asia, Southeast Asia, Central Asia and East Asia to showcase the clothing styles of different regions.
South Asia
The word ikat, from the Malay, refers to a resist-dyeing technique whereby sections of yarns are bound and dyed to create textile patterns. Textiles made using the ikat technique can be found throughout Asia under various names, such as kasuri in Japan and atlas in Central Asia. Silk double ikat textiles, the renowned patola in the Indian state of Gujarat, are characterized by the pattern’s zigzag edge, akin to today’s 8-bit digital art.
The Coromandel Coast in southeastern India is known for its production of chintz, or cotton textiles with hand-drawn patterns. Starting in the 17th century, both chintz and patola became important trade commodities and were exported in large quantities from India to Southeast Asia. These rare and expensive Indian textiles were treasured by local royal houses and upper classes, who passed them down through generations like heirlooms or used them in ceremonies.
Southeast Asia
Located at the crossroads of East and West, Southeast Asia has long received new trends through merchant activities, religious propagation, and foreign embassies. The material cultures, techniques, and ideas from both Europe and Asia met and intermingled here, manifesting in the region’s unique textiles. The terms ikat, batik, and tritik—all from the Malay—have now entered the English lexicon, attesting to the importance of Southeast Asia in textile production, consumption and trade.
Among the many textiles, the ikat occupy the most significant place in Southeast Asia and are produced throughout the region, albeit with different decorative motifs. Ikat textiles from Cambodia, heavily influenced by Hindu and Buddhist cultures, are mostly used in religious ceremonies in monasteries and tend to carry religious motifs. By contrast, those from Indonesia, which saw the introduction of Islam in the 15th century, predominantly carry geometric and floral motifs.
Central Asia
Uzbekistan, a trade hub between China and the West along the Silk Road, has a population of mostly Turkic people, who started to embrace Islamic culture between the 13th and 14th centuries.
The Uzbek traditional lifestyle was predominantly nomadic, so their textiles often used the colors of the steppe and the oasis. The atlas is an ikat-woven textile made in this region, while the suzani, an iconic textile made using a special technique that combines embroidery and patchwork, is often part of the dowry for a Central Asian bride. Both textiles are characterized by bold, contrasting colors and large decorative motifs. The lively designs of the Central Asian nomads have inspired Western designers in their creation of contemporary fashion items.
East Asia
The ikat textiles made in Japan are known as kasuri and were widely produced during the mid-Edo period. It is generally believed that the technique originated in India and made its way via Southeast Asia and Ryukyu to Japan on the back of trade activities. The materials used for kasuri vary across Japan: Ryukyu kasuri were mostly made from hemp and banana fibers, while on the main islands of Japan they were usually made from cotton.
In the 18th century, the Edo shogunate issued sumptuary laws at the same time when the cotton textile industry and indigo dyeing trade were prospering, leading to the wide popularity of blue kasuri kimonos. The small white patterns on the dark blue ground constituted an understated but luxurious style for the time. Many figures depicted on ukiyo-e paintings can be seen wearing clothes made from such textiles.
Chapter 4: Wedding Attire
Strongly influenced by the ancient Chinese Rites of Zhou, traditional Vietnamese weddings were once elaborate affairs. Nowadays, however, ceremonies are much simplified and only retain three of the original six required forms of etiquette: making a proposal of marriage (nacai), sending wedding presents to the bride’s house (nazheng), and fetching the bride in person (yingqin). At the wedding ceremony, Vietnamese people mostly wear traditional costumes, with men wearing long robes and women wearing áo dài dresses, which are often made of silk and embroidered with auspicious symbols such as dragons and phoenixes, cranes, and peonies. The dresses are typically red, for good luck, or white, symbolizing purity. Western cultural influence leads many young Vietnamese couples today to choose to wear suits and white bridal gowns.
Betel nuts and rice wine are fixtures at Vietnamese weddings. Traditionally, the betel nut symbolizes everlasting love and a happy marriage, while rice wine is used to wish the newlyweds long-lasting love and happiness.